INCUB(E): interview with Armelle & Eric, in charge of the new area for Prospective & Research at CUIR A PARIS.
CAP: What is the main innovation trend that you saw at the forum?
AC & ER: We saw many materials pasted to leather, offering a wide variety of properties, some brought softness and others brought thickness to the material. The use of a glued metal layer created leathers with a shape memory, creases and mineral textures. We also noted double-sided leathers that allowed different textures to be created, with a natural effect on both sides. This gluing technique can also be found in the two themes we created.
CAP: Can you give us more information on the main technical innovations that you discovered during the set up of this area?
AC & ER: The main technical innovations that struck us were the 100% vegetable aspects, the biodegradable leathers, and the various resistances (to water, fire etc) with a texture that remained very natural and which did not denature the hide. The most frequently seen innovation was a tendency for natural leather containing many non-natural aspects whose properties are invisible to the naked eye.
CAP: What are the main categories of innovation that emerged in terms of texture and surface aspect?
AC & ER: The visual effect is particularly important notably through large reliefs that give the leather a grainy aspect. We also noted creases, extreme flocking and textures where the relief is accentuated by the metal finish. 3D cutouts are no longer used today to add extra relief but to add texture (through lamination, and grooves). Iridescence is also important and is produced through metallic effects.Textures were also important. Rough and granulated feels are created using pearlised and resin finishes which bring a mineral look with a texture like rock. Abrasive textures are created with the use of ruffled gills, and we saw rubbery textures that give a very matt look to the leather. There is also a tendency for extra-softness thanks to ultra-fine leather which gives an almost sensual aspect. Lastly, we saw papery textures, almost like card, created using paper-gluing techniques.
CAP: Could you tell us about four leading Incube products and explain their characteristics to us?
AC & ER: The first product we selected is by Hervy Mercier. It combines the warm and soft aspects of knitwear with a leather finish, which brings elegance to the product.
The second is by Joao Carvalho (note: Green-blue sponge/terry textile). What is interesting in this product is the possibility of playing with the two colours and the textile side; this leather looks slightly aged, as textiles can also look, and is very supple.
The third product is by Marmara (a brown devore product). The fur has been rubbed in places, which gives it this hybrid look, midway between knitwear and fur, the animal and the finished product.
Lastly, the fourth product that we selected is by Benericetti for its metal colour and paper finish.
|Benericetti||Hervy-Mercier Trading||Marmara Deri||Joao Carvalho|