Interview with Claude Vuillermet, Artistic Director of the Trends Gallery at CUIR A PARIS
||What was the overarching idea for the preparation of the next season’s Gallery?
We have chosen ‘Matière Première’ as the fashion concept for the next season - and consequently for the next Trends Gallery at CUIR A PARIS. After having been inspired by distant themes, we needed to reconnect with the authenticity of materials that so are inspirational for design. In addition, the consumer is increasingly receptive to the composition of products and wants to know more about where they come from.
What are the key colours for Winter 2014-2015?
At the beginning of the season, I thought colour would be less present. But it continues to impose itself and even if it is more nuanced, it will continue to drape Winter 2014-2015 with an attractive optimism. Red is a major colour theme; a warm, velvety red like a Burgundy wine, or fiery between flamboyant orange or brick. Greens persist and become very Couture, taking on sparkling or deep emerald shades. Blues remain consensual and are still part of the palette. Cold neutrals, which borrow from the shades of construction materials, are opposed with very feminine powdery colours. The arrival of new chocolate or caramel browns is one of the highlights of the range. Lastly, blacks are still present, sometimes veering towards aubergine or navy.
It is still early to talk about the realities of Winter 2014-2015. But have you already picked up some vibes?
Yes, of course, a very strong desire for suede, first of all. And inversely, a penchant for cold futuristic materials, with mirrored looks or crystallised surfaces. We are still expecting some cracked effects but they will be more subtle and sophisticated. For the joy of the surprise, the idea of unreasonable pairings is very attractive, with unexpected duos like perforated leather on stretch jersey, or fine leather on a chunky knit. Fur will become less old-fashioned and less dramatic, by playing with the trash couture trend of the ‘poor little rich girl’. It will certainly remain an essential element.